The Cost of Adventure: Experiencing Extortion on the Lagos to Ghana Road Trip

Embarking on a road trip from Lagos to Ghana should be a journey filled with excitement and discovery, traversing the vibrant cultures and landscapes of West Africa. However, for many travellers, including myself, this route has become synonymous with unexpected expenses and bureaucratic hurdles that dampen the spirit of exploration.

Recently, I set out on a cross-country adventure that took me from Nigeria, through Benin Republic and Togo, before finally reaching Ghana. What awaited me along this journey was not just the beauty of the landscapes but also a shocking tale of extortion and exorbitant costs.

As a private car owner seeking to explore these countries for leisure and tourism purposes, I was taken aback by the financial demands placed upon me. To make the journey legally feasible, I found myself paying close to $350 in documentation fees, permits, and various other charges imposed at multiple boarder points.

The process was not only financially draining but also frustratingly bureaucratic. At each border crossing and checkpoint, I encountered demands for payments that seemed arbitrary and inflated. What should have been a straightforward passage through neighbouring countries turned into a series of costly transactions, where transparency and fairness were often lacking.

The implications of such practices are significant. For travellers, it means budgeting for unforeseen expenses that stretch their financial plans and compromise the enjoyment of the trip. For the tourism industry in West Africa, it represents a missed opportunity to attract more visitors and boost economic growth through hospitality and tourism-related spending.

Beyond the financial toll, the experience highlighted broader issues of poor or lack of governance and regional cooperation. The vision of a seamless West African travel corridor, once envisioned to promote integration and tourism, is marred by barriers that discourage travellers and tarnish the region’s reputation.

For instance, ECOWAS members now issue a monthly Laissez-Passer for one month instead of the initial six months that was later downgraded to three months after acquiring the ECOWAS Card, also known as Brown Card at Seme for N30,000.00 as a first entry.

On the Republic of Benin side, I was made to pay 10,000 CFA through an agent; these cost are not displayed, putting every car owner at the mercy of the officials and their business partners masquerading as agents.

Sadly, when the document was released to me, I only saw 6, 580 CFA which means I have been duped of 3, 420 CFA. Meanwhile, the same ECOWAS card I obtained on the Nigerian side would have to be stamped by the Nigerian Customs, which amounted to an additional N5.000.00.

At Hilacondji, the border between Republic of Benin and Togo, I was made to pay 45,000 CFA through an agent; they made the process so difficult that it was impossible to carry out the process without these agents with the language barrier working in their favour.  In the end, I saw 7,000 CFA on the Togo Laissez -Passer instead of the inflated amount I was made to part with.

In total, at that border I spent almost a 60,000 CFA even as I have travelled through that same border in Commercial Coaches and buses regularly in the last 15 years.

On arriving in Togo and Ghana border, I got the shock of my life when I was asked to pay another 45,000 CFA to leave Togo territory and GH₵:1,500 to enter into Ghana territory respectively.

In total, to drive into Ghana from Nigeria, be prepared to pay a total sum of N469, 700 to make the journey in your own vehicle. The cost is for first entry into those territories and it is renewable every month for a reduced amount.

Because the actual amount payable at these borders are not displayed, road users are at the mercy of corrupt officials and the so-called agents.

Addressing these challenges require concerted efforts from governments across the region. Streamlining bureaucratic processes, standardizing fees, and enhancing transparency in transactions are essential steps towards creating a more welcoming environment for travellers and promoting regional tourism.

Moreover, ensuring security along the route is paramount. Instances of extortion and harassment not only threaten the safety of travellers but also undermine confidence in the potential of West Africa as a tourism destination.

In conclusion, my journey from Lagos to Ghana was an eye-opening experience, revealing both the beauty of the region and the obstacles that hinder its potential. By tackling issues of extortion and excessive documentation costs, West African nations can unlock new opportunities for tourism development, economic growth, and cultural exchange.

Let us envision a future where travellers can explore this diverse and vibrant part of the world without financial burdens or bureaucratic hassles, fostering a truly enriching travel experience in West Africa.

By Lucky Onoriode George, Executive Director, African Travel Commission [ATC]. For more information about ATC, visit: www.africantravelcommission.org